CCA4
07-04-2009, 12:55 AM
Hey guys,
I just got done doing the 2-piece/1-piece conversion on my '97 A4, and also added HID's, so I thought I'd turn the pics I took into a DIY, since I never really found a good one when researching. So here goes:
DISCLAIMER: I take no responsiblity for the terrible things you might do to your car after reading this post, it's for informational purposes only.
Tools I used:
-Dremel with a cutoff wheel bit
-Angle grinder
-A set of Torx head sockets
-Soldering gun, flux-core solder and shrink tube
-Clear Silicone
-Files, ratchets, wrenches, and other assorted common tools
I also purchased DEPO 1-Piece projector housings on E-bay, and an 8000k HID kit from VVME and was more than pleased with both.
Ok here's the rundown. The 96-98 A4 came from the factory with (ugly and inefficient) two-piece halogen headlights. Starting in 98.5 they upgraded to projector housings with xenon lamps. This is a pretty basic step-by-step guide to converting your 2-pieces to 1-pieces. Lets get started:
The first thing you're going to need to do is remove the bumper. The front bumper cover is held on by 2 or 3 torx head screws on the inside of each wheel well, and two long torx head bolts in the front. The screws will be easy to spot, evenly spaced along the front of either wheel well. The two bigger bolts are oriented vertically behind the left and right lower grille inserts. If you yank the grilles out you should see the bolts. They're pretty big torx heads, but if you plan on owning your Audi for a while, you should be the proud owner of a big set of torx sockets anyway. The stock headlights are held in by 4 torx head bolts; two on the top, two on the bottom. The two on the bottom are inaccessible with the bumper on, hence step one. When you get all set up, it should look something like this:
http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/christopercook7/SNC00052.jpg
Below is the part of the fender you're going to need to trim off. I've heard of guys using a Sawzall to do the rough cut, but I wasn't feeling that lucky...
http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/christopercook7/SNC00053.jpg
I suggest you tape off the part of the fender you don't want to cut, just to keep the hot chips and sparks from messing up your paint. Start by cutting a little at a time, test-fitting the light as you go. It will take longer this way, but if you cut too much, you'll be screwed and need a new fender, so better to take your time. When I was done cutting, my fender looked like this:
http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/christopercook7/SNC00054.jpg
I did the rough cut with the Dremel, cleaned it up with a grinder, and finished it off/removed burrs with the files. I can't stress enough here to TAKE YOUR TIME.
Test fit the lights one last time, the rubber around the corner light should be tight to the fender like this:
http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/christopercook7/SNC00055.jpg
Repeat this process on the other side, and you're done with the hard manual labor. The next step is to wire in the new headlights. This step is complicated by the fact that the stock lights didn't have ballasts, the HID's do.
I decided to cut the stock wiring harness off inside the stock headlights. Another option is to cut the wiring harness off just behind the plug that goes into the stock housings, and use a multimeter to check the wires. By that I mean, turn on the low beams, and use the volt meter to see which wire is hot. Then repeat to find the high beams and fog lights. Either way, the hot wires for your low beams should go to the ballasts for the HID's, then back to the HID bulbs. The high beams can be transferred straight into the new housings, and the fog lights will have to be moved (since the 2-piece housings have integrated fogs and the 1-piece do not).
Cut a hole in the back of the housings to allow for the new wiring setup, something like this:
http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/christopercook7/SNC00065.jpg
#1 is the access panel behind the projector lense. The large black wire and the black and red mesh go to the ballast, part of which can be seen in the foreground at the bottom right corner.
#2 is the stock wiring harness, which i covered up and re-routed through the access panel behind the highbeam bulb
For now, I just taped off the fog light leads (black wire on mine) to be used later. The HID kit from VVME came with a pretty good set of directions and a wiring diagram, and was reasonably priced. If you're going HID I'd suggest using them. Place the ballasts as far from the motor as is practical, they don't like getting hot.
http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/christopercook7/SNC00062.jpg
http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/christopercook7/SNC00063.jpg
The above pictures are where I chose to mount the driver and passenger side ballasts, respectively. The driver's side is mounted on the plastic shield covering the P/S fluid reservoir, the passenger's side is located just forward of the second firewall, just behind the air box.
Here's the end result:
http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/christopercook7/SNC00057.jpg
http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/christopercook7/SNC00058.jpg
If you have any questions, comments, or would like me to add or remove material from this DIY, PM CCA4 and I'll talk you through it. Thanks guys!
I just got done doing the 2-piece/1-piece conversion on my '97 A4, and also added HID's, so I thought I'd turn the pics I took into a DIY, since I never really found a good one when researching. So here goes:
DISCLAIMER: I take no responsiblity for the terrible things you might do to your car after reading this post, it's for informational purposes only.
Tools I used:
-Dremel with a cutoff wheel bit
-Angle grinder
-A set of Torx head sockets
-Soldering gun, flux-core solder and shrink tube
-Clear Silicone
-Files, ratchets, wrenches, and other assorted common tools
I also purchased DEPO 1-Piece projector housings on E-bay, and an 8000k HID kit from VVME and was more than pleased with both.
Ok here's the rundown. The 96-98 A4 came from the factory with (ugly and inefficient) two-piece halogen headlights. Starting in 98.5 they upgraded to projector housings with xenon lamps. This is a pretty basic step-by-step guide to converting your 2-pieces to 1-pieces. Lets get started:
The first thing you're going to need to do is remove the bumper. The front bumper cover is held on by 2 or 3 torx head screws on the inside of each wheel well, and two long torx head bolts in the front. The screws will be easy to spot, evenly spaced along the front of either wheel well. The two bigger bolts are oriented vertically behind the left and right lower grille inserts. If you yank the grilles out you should see the bolts. They're pretty big torx heads, but if you plan on owning your Audi for a while, you should be the proud owner of a big set of torx sockets anyway. The stock headlights are held in by 4 torx head bolts; two on the top, two on the bottom. The two on the bottom are inaccessible with the bumper on, hence step one. When you get all set up, it should look something like this:
http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/christopercook7/SNC00052.jpg
Below is the part of the fender you're going to need to trim off. I've heard of guys using a Sawzall to do the rough cut, but I wasn't feeling that lucky...
http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/christopercook7/SNC00053.jpg
I suggest you tape off the part of the fender you don't want to cut, just to keep the hot chips and sparks from messing up your paint. Start by cutting a little at a time, test-fitting the light as you go. It will take longer this way, but if you cut too much, you'll be screwed and need a new fender, so better to take your time. When I was done cutting, my fender looked like this:
http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/christopercook7/SNC00054.jpg
I did the rough cut with the Dremel, cleaned it up with a grinder, and finished it off/removed burrs with the files. I can't stress enough here to TAKE YOUR TIME.
Test fit the lights one last time, the rubber around the corner light should be tight to the fender like this:
http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/christopercook7/SNC00055.jpg
Repeat this process on the other side, and you're done with the hard manual labor. The next step is to wire in the new headlights. This step is complicated by the fact that the stock lights didn't have ballasts, the HID's do.
I decided to cut the stock wiring harness off inside the stock headlights. Another option is to cut the wiring harness off just behind the plug that goes into the stock housings, and use a multimeter to check the wires. By that I mean, turn on the low beams, and use the volt meter to see which wire is hot. Then repeat to find the high beams and fog lights. Either way, the hot wires for your low beams should go to the ballasts for the HID's, then back to the HID bulbs. The high beams can be transferred straight into the new housings, and the fog lights will have to be moved (since the 2-piece housings have integrated fogs and the 1-piece do not).
Cut a hole in the back of the housings to allow for the new wiring setup, something like this:
http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/christopercook7/SNC00065.jpg
#1 is the access panel behind the projector lense. The large black wire and the black and red mesh go to the ballast, part of which can be seen in the foreground at the bottom right corner.
#2 is the stock wiring harness, which i covered up and re-routed through the access panel behind the highbeam bulb
For now, I just taped off the fog light leads (black wire on mine) to be used later. The HID kit from VVME came with a pretty good set of directions and a wiring diagram, and was reasonably priced. If you're going HID I'd suggest using them. Place the ballasts as far from the motor as is practical, they don't like getting hot.
http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/christopercook7/SNC00062.jpg
http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/christopercook7/SNC00063.jpg
The above pictures are where I chose to mount the driver and passenger side ballasts, respectively. The driver's side is mounted on the plastic shield covering the P/S fluid reservoir, the passenger's side is located just forward of the second firewall, just behind the air box.
Here's the end result:
http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/christopercook7/SNC00057.jpg
http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/christopercook7/SNC00058.jpg
If you have any questions, comments, or would like me to add or remove material from this DIY, PM CCA4 and I'll talk you through it. Thanks guys!