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frostyflax17
02-10-2009, 04:06 PM
so i've had a nasty boost leak for the past month or so, it would go on and off, it held 20psi... once. then right after it only held 15.

there's a kazuu time sound coming from the car sound like hig vibrations of metal, i thought i had a leak in my hoses somewhere, but i had a buddy at the local german shop ride with me and he said it's probably my DV is going out and it's releaving boost.

floored it from 3rd and the boost climbed to 15psi then started dropping off with the gas pedal still floored around 3.5k.

how can i check my DV?


edit: don't have the forge 007 dv, i have the apr r1 dv, and that's not the problem. just a boost leak somewhere. heading to shop to try n find it tomorrow (11th) or just make my own tester.

Cincy
02-10-2009, 04:10 PM
Kind of hard to have a 007 issue with an APR R1 installed. If you have an issue with it, you need to talk to a retailer and they should be able to replace the diaphram in it.

frostyflax17
02-10-2009, 04:19 PM
idk anyone around here that's as smart as you guys to look at my car, so it sucks when someone (guy at german shop), says my dv/bov is behind my engine somewhere and is probably giving me the leak.

i saw the apr dv cause it's kinda sitting right there in front from the dv relocate kit...

Cincy
02-10-2009, 04:26 PM
If he didnt look at the car, thats where it is located stock.

Anyways, find someone with a dv that you can barrow would be the fastest and easiest way to tell if its at fault. Havent seen the R1 in person, but if you can remove and disassble it, you can see if the diaphram is torn

http://volkswurks.com/picture_library/APR/R1-DV.jpg

frostyflax17
02-10-2009, 04:34 PM
yeah, he did see it, and that is it. i pointed it out saying that was my DV and he said no it's not, there's no bov.

idk how it works exactly, i'll do some research i guess unless you can explain it to me if you want.

i can swap it out no problem i think.

Cincy
02-10-2009, 04:43 PM
swapping takes 30 secs. Pull the 2 clamps off the sides and the vac line off the top, and switch.

If you can remove and disassemble the one you have, check that orange part for iregulrities. This will cause the boost to be leaked off. This is the downfall of all diaphram valves. APR should replace the diaphram for you.

Murderface
02-10-2009, 04:49 PM
Kind of hard to have a 007 issue with an APR R1 installed.

:lol:

Never had an issue with my 007 although it doesn't seem to respond too well with my new motor, i.e. instead of doing a smooth, single "pshhh" a lot of the time it'll surge briefly before the DV dumps the boost. It's greased up and I'm running the green spring...I'm thinking perhaps deleting the N249 may help.

frostyflax17
02-10-2009, 05:19 PM
both the n249 and n114 (that right?) to my car are sitting at andrews haha.

it releases just fine (all excess pressure is diverted to the intake right?)

idk why it would make a kazuu noise when releasing excess air vs. the quiet pshh sound that it normally makes.

Cincy
02-10-2009, 05:21 PM
that would be most likely due to a bad diaphram.

frostyflax17
02-10-2009, 05:23 PM
still makes the psh sound though when you release the throttle real fast, wouldn't it make the buzzing sound then also?

Cincy
02-10-2009, 05:30 PM
If the sound has changed and the pressure isnt the same, one would actually look at the dv and not keep asking questions. Take it out, disassemble and get your answer

frostyflax17
02-10-2009, 05:46 PM
i'll take it apart tonight and snap some pics, then see if i can swap it out with someone at the car meet that has a bov/dv.

are most of them universal? as long as the tubes fit right? then just clamp off the dv tube to the intake.

Cincy
02-10-2009, 05:49 PM
all the 25mm/1" valves are the same

frostyflax17
02-10-2009, 06:00 PM
i was saying like, there's some srt4's that come out, and i'm not sure but i think that my friend davids tt might have a bov, but it's in the stock location.

i was wondering if i could use there valves if it's still the 25mm? or does it have to be the 1"

Cincy
02-10-2009, 06:50 PM
25mm = 1"

Dont think any srt's are running this size valve.

frostyflax17
02-10-2009, 07:37 PM
haha, metric conversions... didn't even think about it.

rodent
02-10-2009, 09:47 PM
i was saying like, there's some srt4's that come out, and i'm not sure but i think that my friend davids tt might have a bov, but it's in the stock location.

i was wondering if i could use there valves if it's still the 25mm? or does it have to be the 1"


go to this page to get info on blow of valves (BOV) and diverter valves (DV)

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0006&product=FMDVSPLTR

there is a link says click here..

our cars need DV, but now they have splitter combination DV/BOV so we can get the BOV "sound" diferent valves give diferent sounds, you dont have a BOV, do you?:huh:


i like this place, thanks for the invite. putting stuff in the mail on saturday.

Cincy
02-10-2009, 10:07 PM
[COLOR="Blue"]our cars need DV, but now they have splitter combination DV/BOV so we can get the BOV "sound" diferent valves give diferent sounds, you dont have a BOV, do you?:huh:


:confused:

Someone should of told me that like 2 years ago, oh wait, they did and they WERE WRONG!!!!

Please take the time to read the FAQ before spitting out more incorrect info

kthanxbye

rodent
02-10-2009, 10:23 PM
ok , maybe i dont like this place. JK.

so are you saying the TT will run just fine with a fully atmospheric valve.
i always wanted an HKS SSQV BOV, would that work on my 01 TT.

i have the forge splitter R.

by the way you are doing a great job, administrator.

Cincy
02-10-2009, 10:32 PM
Bovs are ok to use on the car, but not all cars will accept them with stock power. To use them, you MUST have a valve that is closed at idle. These include a twin piston valve and a HKS ssqv. This prevents the car from stalling and leaking air at idle. It will also not run rich after the car adapts (sometimes not needed to at most 2 days). The best bovs are the forge004 and ssqv. For BT applications, a tial 50mm bov.


^

rodent
02-10-2009, 10:48 PM
sweet!;)

frosty, i really dont think you have a BOV right now, its a DV.
let me know how that turns out

Cincy
02-10-2009, 11:00 PM
You can see what he has posted above, its just an R1 dv. Its right next to the battery if you see his thread in the welcome forum

NVM, ill make it simple for everyone again

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m28/surrogatelax17/1114081610.jpg?t=1233297235

Murderface
02-10-2009, 11:12 PM
I can haz forge 004?
http://autobraun.com/catalog/images/FOR-DV004.jpg

$100, not played out like the damn SSQV. Win in my book.

Cincy
02-10-2009, 11:13 PM
Nope....

http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/pp46/cincyTT/100_1662.jpg


its actually facing upwards with a 90* elbow now

Murderface
02-10-2009, 11:15 PM
I see you have yours configured with the vac line delete :tongue:

.clipse
02-10-2009, 11:30 PM
ur running a front mount now cinc? since when lol

Cincy
02-11-2009, 12:08 AM
I see you have yours configured with the vac line delete :tongue:

if you look close, you can see the vac line running past it since i havent cut it to fit yet since i didnt know where it was going to end up.

ur running a front mount now cinc? since when lol

I sold my prototype w2a to stevemann because my hose that attaches behind the engine to the pancake pipe was torn and keep blowing off. Since i was keeping this part on the w2a, i just couldnt go into boost very long before it blew off. Since their is no replacement and the new ones use a push in oring fitting that sucks, i cant really find a replacement. This was the only feasable solution to make my car reliable and done timely.

frostyflax17
02-11-2009, 12:50 AM
went to the meet and swapped my r1 dv for a apr bov that was in my friends TT (had a single adjustable spring for diff't boost levels), so we test drove it a few times and it was leaking just as much with the same noise, so it wasn't my DV.

on another note
what diameter are the forge pipes i have? looks like 3" but didn't measure it, i have access to a 2.5" and a 3" cuppler to test for the leak tomorrow. I'll make mine later when i can get a hold of a tap kit and all the parts.


p.s. felix, definitely read the faq page, you'll learn a lot and you won't get flamed at for posting misinformation. welcome though! glad you made it to the best audi forum there is. (thanks cincy for giving him a warm welcome) haha

myslow1
02-11-2009, 01:24 AM
went to the meet and swapped my r1 dv for a apr bov that was in my friends TT (had a single adjustable spring for diff't boost levels), so we test drove it a few times and it was leaking just as much with the same noise, so it wasn't my DV.

on another note
what diameter are the forge pipes i have? looks like 3" but didn't measure it, i have access to a 2.5" and a 3" cuppler to test for the leak tomorrow. I'll make mine later when i can get a hold of a tap kit and all the parts.


p.s. felix, definitely read the faq page, you'll learn a lot and you won't get flamed at for posting misinformation. welcome though! glad you made it to the best audi forum there is. (thanks cincy for giving him a warm welcome) haha

The forge kit comes with all hard pipes? They are prob 2.25"

Murderface
02-11-2009, 01:37 AM
if you look close, you can see the vac line running past it since i havent cut it to fit yet since i didnt know where it was going to end up.

:P I was just messin

frostyflax17
02-11-2009, 01:54 AM
The forge kit comes with all hard pipes? They are prob 2.25"

they look a lot bigger than 2.25", and what do you mean by hard pipes? they feel soft to me haha. i can squish them in pretty easily. lol

Cincy
02-11-2009, 10:27 AM
went to the meet and swapped my r1 dv for a apr bov
:lol: im sure others may find this as funny as i do :lol: again


You are talking about the tip, its 3" on the 225

rodent
02-11-2009, 12:30 PM
:lol: im sure others may find this as funny as i do :lol: again


You are talking about the tip, its 3" on the 225

i am confused, :confused:
maybe its the wording.
how do you remove a DV and put in a BOV.
did you plug the relocation hose going back in to the intake hose if it was a BOV.

any TT drivers live close to frosty

Cincy
02-11-2009, 12:42 PM
Yes, you put the bov on the charge piping and plug the intake.

rodent
02-11-2009, 12:50 PM
Yes, you put the bov on the charge piping and plug the intake.

Cincy, where you there with frosty when he did this.:mellow:

Cincy
02-11-2009, 12:51 PM
Im in OH, he is in NC....

rodent
02-11-2009, 12:59 PM
Im in OH, he is in NC....

:o i dont know what to say.

frosty i will just give you a call on the cell. look at that link from forge.
I am double checking on that BOV for the TT. i really want the HKS SSQV if it works with no degrade in performance.

frostyflax17
02-11-2009, 06:45 PM
sorry, my bad, it wasn't a bov... it was a supposed "dv bov" from apr from what david told me, but he knows less than i do...


i'm pretty lost i guess. i hooked it up the way it worked and made sense.

still not sure what the joke is about cincy with the 3" tip...

Cincy
02-11-2009, 06:51 PM
Reading > you. Those were 2 completely separate statements. You asked about the tip size and i said 3". Me :lol: is about you talking about removing APR's ONLY valve with another like its different. Prettys sure it wasnt apr

frostyflax17
02-11-2009, 07:02 PM
that's just it, i don't remember talking about a tip. i was asking the diameter of the forge intake piping so i could take out the maf and pop in a cuppler to test the boost pressure.

and if apr only makes the r1 then obviously davids isn't an apr... idk what it was, but i took my dv out and swapped his in which the tube for the backpressure went to it, operated a spring and pushed up a metal disc which then allowed air to either to recirculate back to the intake or out into the air which looked like a bov to me...

Cincy
02-11-2009, 07:14 PM
MAF- mass air flow. Air flow meter attached to the airbox
MBC- manual boost controller.
EBC- electronic boost controller
n75 - stock boost controller. It is non adjustable and in the intake behind the maf
PCV- positive crankcase ventilation. Main cause of oil in intake and ic.
TB- either throttle body or timing belt. based on context
TIP- turbo inlet pipe. piece from the maf to the turbo
w/m or wmi - water/meth injection aka alky injection
DBW- drive by wire. electronic tb
DBW- drive by cable.cable operated


FAQ to the rescue!!! I knew i put that together for a reason

frostyflax17
02-11-2009, 07:20 PM
well that's a retarded acronym! it's like saying i was taking care of my desk last night, not the desk my computer sits on but dogs ear sock kit... or of that nature.

it can get confused too easily.

Murderface
02-11-2009, 07:22 PM
Now you know, may wanna read up on the other ones else discussions like these will get real confusing real fast =\

Cincy
02-11-2009, 07:22 PM
:confused1:...... :cursing:

frostyflax17
02-11-2009, 07:25 PM
i did read those, i read the entire faq page twice, and the whole garret 101-103 lessons...

forgive me for getting an exhaust tip confused with a tip.

Cincy
02-11-2009, 07:26 PM
I always place my exhaust tip in the engine bay.... :lol:


sorry, had to